Cochise stronghold (and intro)

It's been about 1.5 years since we started climbing and I wanted to document in a little more detail than just photos and mountain project logs, so I can remember details later. This weekend I got time off work so we went to Cochise stronghold for a few days, taking the van. It's a five hour drive, so the first day we just went up to sweet rock to do the moderates and get used to the rock.

We started on good and plenty 5.7, then whatchamacallit 5.8 and finally kit Kat 5.8. Kit Kat was considerably harder than the other two, with less obvious moves. I asked to take on the slab crux and on the first roof might have gone off route since I clipped a bolt on the right to protect the move which I then back cleaned. The second roof went with a heel hook to a dead point to cutting feet. Probably not the most efficient.

The rock itself was amazing. Solid holds everywhere except for the hollow sounding block on good and plenty, and a lot of friction without abrasion. Bolt spacing was perfect. I really enjoyed the very long whatchamacallit.

We camped next to peanut rock and watched the falcon 9 rocket take off after sunset.

Next day we drove to the end of the road. The pro master van made it there just fine but I can see how a low clearance car could struggle.

We went to climb four course meal. The approach was uneventful though we couldn't be sure which start was the right one until we found the bolted buttress that's the unknown route left of it on mountain project.

The first two pitches (linked) were mostly a scramble with the occasional thought provoking move. Linking pitches means I got to belay at the huge tree. L lead the third pitch which was great 5.6 climbing and I lead the last. At first I wanted to try the hand crack finish but I got spooked by the approach to the crack, so I kept climbing to the window which was an awesome view but required a somewhat run out slab traverse to get back on the protectable ramp. From there it's pretty chill to the top. This variation is good if you want to peek at the window and it skips the horn rappel on the main variation.

The rock here was also perfect, grippy without destroying the skin. The walk down was easy to find. Overall the climb was 5.6 or easy 5.7 this way.

Next day L wanted to try ewephoria. I was skeptical since it looked a little more intimidating and with harder climbing. It took her over an hour to lead the first pitch, resting on gear a few times. In this time two more parties arrived at the base despite this being a Wednesday. When I followed the pitch it was extremely slippery and not comfortable to climb, even after you step out of the slimy corner. So we bailed since continuing on that slipperiness and difficulty would not make for a fun day.

We'll try it again next time. That first pitch felt at least two grades harder than four course meal and harder than kit Kat. I need to understand how to climb slippery rock more comfortably. We also got lost on the way down, scrambled down then wash until the trail crossed it and we could get back on it.

Then we tried to eat in tombstone but it was horrendously crowded so we ate in Tucson and drove home.

Verdict is fun trip but I think being solid on 5.9 or even 5.10 trad is kind of a pre requisite to have a fun time in the West side of Cochise.